Poem+Representing+the+Australian+Beach+Culture

THE SURFER

//He thrust his joy against the weight of the sea;// //climbed through, slid under those long banks of// //foam--// //(hawthorn hedges in spring, thorns in the face stinging).// //How his brown strength drove through the hollow and coil// //of green-through weirs of water!// //Muscle of arm thrust down long muscle of water;// //and swimming so, went out of sight// //where mortal, masterful, frail, the gulls went wheeling// //in air as he in water, with delight.//

//Turn home, the sun goes down; swimmer, turn home.// //Last leaf of gold vanishes from the sea-curve.// //Take the big roller’s shoulder, speed and serve;// //come to the long beach home like a gull diving.//

//For on the sand the grey-wolf sea lies, snarling,// //cold twilight wind splits the waves’ hair and shows// //the bones they worry in their wolf-teeth. O, wind blows// //and sea crouches on sand, fawning and mouthing;// //drops there and snatches again, drops and again snatches// //its broken toys, its whitened pebbles and shells.//

Written by Judith Wright